Many thanks to Claiborne Young for contributing to our website. If you would like more information about his Cruising Guide Series, or wish to order any of his works, click here. |
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Many thanks to Claiborne Young for contributing to our website. If you would like more information about his Cruising Guide Series, or wish to order any of his works, click here. |
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Southwest of Port Royal Sound, the ICW enters the headwaters of Skull Creek and comes into contact with Hilton Head Island. Hilton Head comprises the southeastern banks of the Waterway until the route turns west off Calibogue Sound into Cooper River. Seven marinas are located on the island, and all eagerly accept transients. Nowhere else in coastal South Carolina are so many facilities for the cruising boater concentrated in so small an area. Skull Creek leads the Waterway cruiser southwest to Calibogue Sound. Like most open bodies of water, Calibogue can foster choppy conditions when winds exceed 15 knots. The sound's inlet channel provides fairly reliable access to the open sea. Some markers are not charted, probably because they are frequently shifted. The inlet channel is used by fishing boats from Hilton Head Island on a daily basis. While not absolutely necessary, local knowledge is certainly desirable before attempting the inlet. Check on current conditions at one of the area marinas. May River breaks off to the west near the northeastern headwaters of Calibogue Sound and provides beautiful cruising grounds as far inland as the historic community of Bluffton. A well-outlined channel and numerous anchorage possibilities add to this lovely stream's charms. Unlike Port Royal Sound, the waters around Hilton Head Island are some of the most heavily used in the state. Their popularity is richly deserved. There are very few shoals or other navigational difficulties. Calibogue Sound in particular is blessed with great natural beauty. The numerous marinas are a real boon to visiting and resident boaters alike. Yet amid all this popularity, there is still the opportunity to cruise isolated waters. Seldom will cruising boaters find a water body so consistently overlooked, yet possessing such a lovely character, as May River. There are even a few creeks off Calibogue Sound that provide sheltered anchorage far from civilization. To summarize, the waters of and around the ICW from Port Royal Sound to Cooper River have just about everything the cruising boater could ever desire. To arrange taxi or rental-car transportation on Hilton Head, call Taxi World (803-686-6666), Low Country Adventures (803-681-8212), Enterprise Rent-A-Car (803-689-9910), or Budget Car Rentals (803-689-4040). Skull Creek The ICW enters the northeastern headwaters of Skull Creek at flashing daybeacon #6. The creek splinters into several branches at this point. The Waterway follows the northwesternmost fork. The marked route is more reliable, but it is worth noting that the southeasternmost branch holds minimum 9-foot depths and is readily navigable southwest to Skull Creek Marina. Boats up to 36 feet will find sufficient swinging room to drop the hook on the southwestern two-thirds of this creek. Be sure to anchor well away from the marina docks. Skull Creek Marina The huge dockage complex associated with Skull Creek Marina is readily visible east of unlighted daybeacon #9A. This unusually well-appointed, modern facility gladly accepts transients and features concrete floating docks with every conceivable power, water, telephone, and cable-television connection. As you would imagine, the showers and full-service laundromat are first-rate. Gasoline, diesel fuel, and waste pump-out services are available, as well as full below-waterline haul-out repairs (via a 30-ton travelift). Mechanical service can be easily arranged through local independent contractors. The on-site restaurant was closed at the time of this writing but should be reopened under new management by the spring of 1996. Visiting cruisers are welcome to make use of the development's golf course. Reservations may be made at the marina office. A courtesy van is even available to ferry boaters to the nearby supermarket. Skull Creek Marina struck this writer as an unusually friendly establishment where the visiting cruiser can be assured of a warm welcome. Advance dockage reservations are heartily recommended during the spring or fall transient seasons. It's really that popular. Outdoor Resorts Yacht Club Marina Outdoor Resorts Yacht Club Marina overlooks the ICW's southwestern shoreline opposite unlighted daybeacon #20. This facility maintains a floating, wooden-decked transient dock fronting directly onto the ICW. Shelter might not be adequate for really heavy weather. Some additional dockage is located in a sheltered cove just west of the transient pier, but these slips are occupied exclusively by resident boaters. Depths on the outer slips run 10 feet or better, with at least 8 feet of water on the inner berths. Full power and water connections are very much in the offing. Gasoline and diesel fuel can be purchased at the marina, and some mechanical repairs can be arranged through independent technicians. Waste pump-out service is available by way of a portable system. Shoreside, boaters will find showers, a laundromat, tennis courts, a sauna, a swimming pool, and an on-site restaurant. Again, advance reservations during transient season are a wise precaution. Hilton Head's newest and arguably most unique facility sits hard by the southwesterly mouth of Skull Creek north of unlighted daybeacon #27 (on the easterly banks). To this writer's knowledge, Windmill Harbor Marina is the Southeast's only facility accessible to visiting cruisers that features a "locked harbor." Boats docking at the fixed concrete piers need not contend with the rise and fall of the tide thanks to the harbor's lock gate. Of course, the basin is also thoroughly protected from any weather short of a hurricane by this same scheme. The locked dockage basin's shores are beautifully landscaped and surrounded by tasteful condos and several larger buildings. One of these latter structures houses the South Carolina Yacht Club (803-681-4844). Visiting cruisers may request guest membership in this fine organization, and believe me, it's worth your time to take advantage of this extra service. The club is decorated in the most sumptuous nautical style that this writer has ever observed. Additionally, the bar and restaurant are absolutely first-rate. You will not find better food anywhere in the South Carolina Low Country. Cruising boaters can rejoice in Windmill Harbor's decision to accept transients for overnight or temporary dockage. Most slips are fixed concrete structures featuring full water and power connections. The sheltered entrance channel leading to the lock has low-tide depths of 6 feet, with 8 to 10 feet of water in the tide-protected harbor. Gasoline, diesel fuel, and waste pump-out services are at hand, as are shoreside showers. Mechanical repairs can be arranged, and the marina features a small but nevertheless full-line ship's store. Boaters seeking a unique, upper-crust cruising experience should do themselves a huge favor and give Windmill Harbor Marina a try. Need this writer even say that advance reservations would be one of the smartest precautions you could take on your cruise? Calibogue Sound and Broad Creek Facilities and Anchorages At flashing daybeacon #24, Skull Creek leads ICW cruisers into the northern headwaters of Calibogue Sound. Mackay Creek cuts back to the north and offers prime cruising ground and several excellent anchorages. Similarly, May River breaks off from Calibogue Sound west of flashing daybeacon #29. Both of these water bodies will be covered later in this chapter. The various facilities and anchorages of Hilton Head Island on Broad Creek and Calibogue Sound are reviewed immediately below. Jarvis Creek Jarvis Creek leads east into the main body of Hilton Head Island at flashing daybeacon #1, south of Ferry Point. The creek holds minimum 9-foot depths until it takes a sharp jog to the north well upstream, but the channel is surrounded by mud flats that are covered at high water. Consequently, it is sometimes difficult to pick out the deepwater passage at high tide. The mud flats also give virtually no protection from hard blows. Boaters will find enough swinging room for craft up to 34 feet to anchor, but their stay will be uncomfortable if winds exceed 10 knots. Bryan Creek Bryan Creek cuts into Calibogue Sound's northwestern banks well southwest of unlighted daybeacon #30. This stream makes an excellent anchorage for those who prefer an isolated haven for the night. Minimum depths run around 7 feet, with most of the stream deeper. There is sufficient swinging room for boats up to 38 feet. The creek's entrance is surrounded by shoals and calls for careful cruising. However, there is a broad entrance channel, and cautious navigators should be able to keep to the deep water. The creek's lower reaches are surrounded by marsh grass, but the higher ground of Bull Island flanks the western banks as the stream ncounter on the creek of the same name. Located on the stream's northern banks just upstream from Palmetto Bay Marina, Broad Creek is the smallest facility on Hilton Head Island. The firm's principal business is the dry-stack storage of small power craft. The marina does offer some transient dockage on floating piers with power and water connections. Gasoline (but not diesel fuel) can be purchased dockside. Mechanical repairs are offered, and there is an on-site ship's store where snacks can be purchased. A prolific series of unlighted daybeacons leads boaters up Broad Creek to one of the finest facilities on all of Hilton Head Island (or anywhere else, for that matter). Shelter Cove Marina is perched in a man-made cove on the southeastern shores of Broad Creek near flashing daybeacons #22 and #23. The marina encourages transient business and offers a wide array of services. The only disadvantage to this facility is the fairly lengthy trek from the ICW and Calibogue Sound that is required to reach its basin. Many boaters will find the trip more than justified. Minimum dockside depths in Shelter Cove's well-protected basin are a very impressive 8 to 12 feet. The docks are ultramodern concrete-decked floating piers that boast every sort of water, power, telephone, and cable-television connection. Gasoline, diesel fuel, and waste pump-out are readily available, and the marina maintains an excellent, full-line ship's and variety store. Some mechanical repairs can be arranged through independent contractors. Showers and a full laundromat are also available. The adjacent Harbormaster Restaurant (803-785-3030) is very convenient and features fine seafood. Several additional dining choices (including a "Fuddruckers" restaurant) are only a short step away in an adjacent shopping complex. Here, you will also find a supermarket.In our cruising experience, this writer and his mate have seldom come across a better-equipped marina than Shelter Cove. We encourage our fellow boaters to take advantage of this unusually well-appointed facility. Harbour Town Yacht Basin is certainly the best known of Hilton Head Island's many boating facilities. Its candy-striped red-and-white lighthouse has been admired for many years by cruisers traveling along the ICW. This special facility is located well southeast of flashing daybeacon #32. Harbour Town Yacht Basin used to suffer from some fairly severe low-water depth problems and a bit of tidal surge at the docks. Both of these difficulties have been lessened by the construction of twin breakwaters flanking the dockage basin's entrance. These structures are marked by flashing daybeacons #3 and #4. At the time of this writing, approach depths had risen to some 5 feet at mean low water. Fortunately, maintenance dredging is scheduled for February 1996, with a projected depth of 9 feet.If past experience is a teacher, the entrance channel could shoal again in the future. Skippers whose craft draw more than 5 feet may want to check with the marina staff ahead of time or enter and leave on a rising tide. Harbour Town welcomes visiting boaters with ultramodern concrete floating docks. All slips feature every conceivable power and water connection. Gasoline, diesel fuel, and waste pump-out service are available, of course, and full mechanical service is now offered as well. Spotless showers and a full laundromat are only a step away. Visiting cruisers are welcome at the complex's swimming pool and tennis courts. The world-famous Harbour Town golf course is located nearby and is readily visible to starboard as you enter the harbor. Hold onto your wallet_the greens fees are something to behold. Harbour Town's docks are grouped in a circular bay around a series of exclusive shops and restaurants. It's a bit like Palm Beach's Worth Avenue in the South Carolina Low Country. There are clothing and gift stores, book shops, and nautical retailers. Three restaurants stand ready to satisfy famished cruisers. One, the Cafe Europa (803-671-3399), overlooks the sound through glass walls. This writer particularly recommends the shrimp salad, with the cherry torte for dessert. With a view of the sun setting across the sound, a leisurely meal in such surroundings at the end of a long cruising day can be a memorable repast indeed. The Quarterdeck (803-671-2222) is located atop the Cafe Europa and features casual dining in a lovely setting. And if you're in the market for some tasty seafood, consider the Crazy Crab Restaurant (803-363-2722) for lunch or dinner. You simply can't do better. While it's not on the harbor, nearby CQ's Restaurant (803-671-2779) may just serve the best food in Harbor Town. The fresh seafood, steaks, and poultry dishes are all consistently excellent. Visitors are free to climb the Harbour Town Lighthouse. The view from the light's crown commands a wide panorama of the sound and Daufuskie Island to the west. Eastward, you can see much of Hilton Head. You must ascend many flights of steps to reach the top, but the view is well worth the climb. Harbour Town Yacht Basin remains one of the most prestigious stops on the entire ICW. Visiting cruisers should know that all these sumptuous qualities do not come cheaply, but many will still find the experience worth the price. If you choose to set your course for Harbour Town, it would be a good idea to call ahead for reservations to avoid disappointment. Baynard Cove Creek and Braddock Cove A series of private markers south of the Harbour Town Yacht Basin entrance denotes two channels leading into the western shores of Hilton Head Island. These channels serve two private dockage harbors that are associated with several condominium projects. At low tide, the two cuts carry only some 5 to 6 feet of water. Visiting boaters are advised to bypass both streams. Hilton Head Island History Hilton Head Island was known as the "Island of the Bears" in early colonial times. The sands of Hilton Head have changed much since the noble bear was the island's principal resident. William Hilton explored the region in 1663, and the island was subsequently named in his honor. He described the area in glowing terms: "The lands are laden with large tall trees_oaks, walnuts and bayes, except facing the sea it is mostly pines. . . . The country abounds with grapes, large figs and peaches; the woods with deer, conies, turkeys, quail, curlues, plovers, teile, herons, ducks and innumerable other water fowls. Oysters [are] in abundance. . . . The Rivers [are] stored plentifully with fish which we saw play and leap." Once the danger of Indian attack lessened following the Yemassee Indian wars, families began to settle and build plantations on Hilton Head. Most of these have vanished with the passing years, but several are remembered in the names of modern resort developments. During the Revolution, the settlers on Hilton Head took a decidedly patriot stand. This contrasted sharply with the Loyalist leanings of the Daufuskie Island citizenry across the sound. There were frequent skirmishes on Hilton Head between the two groups. Hilton Head Island fell to Union forces in the early stages of the Civil War. Fort Walker had been hastily constructed by the Confederates to guard the island's southeastern point. The fort was attacked by a huge Union fleet, which landed more than 13,000 troops. After Fort Walker's fall, the Northern fleet used the island as a base of supply for its regional operations. Following the war, Hilton Head was virtually abandoned until the Sea Pines Company pioneered a resort development in the 1950s. Today, the island hosts the largest collection of condominiums, hotels, restaurants, and marinas in all of coastal South Carolina. The automobile traffic problems have grown so severe that a new bypass bridge over Broad Creek is being discussed. Several golf courses, many tennis clubs, and a late-fall sailing race known as the Calibogue Cup are among the island's attractions. The island draws larger and larger crowds every year. Hilton Head Island Stories Hilton Head Island has its share of buried-treasure stories. One tale claims that the Frenchmen of the abortive Charlesfort colony on Parris Island salvaged over $1.5 million in gold recovered from Spanish wrecks by friendly Indians. Tradition holds that the French settlers buried their booty on Hilton Head. Another old story begins with the successful raiding of Spanish treasure ships by the French navy off the South Carolina coast. The booty was subsequently buried on Hilton Head. When the Spanish conqueror Menendez captured a French colony in Florida, he was offered this treasure as ransom. The offer was refused, and the gold was lost. Who knows? Perhaps buried treasure still awaits some young lad with pail and shovel building sandcastles on the beach at Hilton Head. |
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[Hilton Head Island]~
